And how you as an owner can see through this!

Introduction

Do you think your dog is eating his healthiest?

That's exactly what Big Pet Food wants you to think.

Behind the shiny bags with pictures of wolves, fresh meat, claims, and bright colors lies a world of half-truths . Big Pet Food sells a feeling, often at the expense of health.

Every bite from that bag of kibble. Every can of pate. Less nutritious than you think.

A complex industry where profit dictates the rules for many companies. And you pay the price. Or rather—your dog.

Time to break the mold. And get back to how dogs are supposed to eat: real food. Simple. Honest.

In this article?

• 10 Packaging Tricks from Big Pet Food (and How to Spot Them)
• The facts, straight to the point and substantiated.
• For each trick, a handy check to see through it.

Our goal with this article isn't to smear anyone. We believe that everyone (including Big Pet Food) has our dogs' best interests at heart.

Unfortunately, the modern world of convenience, profit and constantly lower prices has not been kind to our four-legged friends.

Your dog deserves better. And after reading this article, you'll be one step closer to optimal health.

Their longest life, back in your hands.

Trick 1: With fresh meat → a complicated half-truth

On the packaging you see a juicy chicken fillet or a shiny piece of salmon.

But what's really inside? That's often a completely different story.

In Europe, the vast majority of dog food is what is called "Feed Grade" .

Sounds innocent. But it simply means: not suitable for human consumption .

If it's not suitable for you, it's often okay to put it in your dog's bowl. Here's what Feed Grade includes:

According to European Regulation (EC No. 1069/2009), Feed Grade meat may consist of, among other things:

❌ Sludge meat – residual meat mechanically scraped from the carcass after all usable parts have been removed

❌ Hydrolyzed poultry meal – a mix of ground bones, cartilage and residual tissue

❌ Animal by-products – an umbrella term for everything from beaks to hooves, fat and organs without a specific origin

Full list

1. Meat we don't eat

• Rejected for humans, but declared safe
• May come from animals that were slaughtered but never ended up on your plate
• Think of discolored areas, overproduction, or unwanted organs

2. Animal by-products

• Beaks
• Hooves
• Carcasses
• Fat and organs without origin
• Bones, skin, cartilage

Anything left over after slaughter may be included

3. Fish scraps

• • Bones
  • Fish heads
  • Intestines
  • Skin

4. Rejected eggs & dairy

• Eggs that may not be sold
• Milk or cheese leftovers that are 'unusable' for humans

5. Blood & rendered fat

• Blood meal: dried blood powder
• Rendered animal fat from carcasses

6. Dead animals (sometimes)

❗️ Not always permitted, but in some cases, animals that were not slaughtered (but e.g. died on the farm) may still be processed — as long as they were not sick.

Depending on the category and processing method

This material often falls under Category 3 by-products : slaughterhouse waste that is not directly hazardous, but also does not meet human food safety requirements [(EFSA, 2020)].

And yet, manufacturers are allowed to label it as "with fresh meat"—as long as it contains a minimum amount of fresh meat . There's no legal minimum. In many cases, it's just over 4%.

Why 4%?

That number comes from older guidelines that manufacturers often use as a rule of thumb. It was once the limit for "X flavor" or "with X." But legally, even that is no longer a strict requirement.

The result

A piece containing 96% processed by-products and 4% fresh meat can still be marketed as "with fresh meat." And that should include a cheerful photo of a juicy chicken fillet.

An extruded mass of unknown composition, compressed into a lump.

With a nice picture on it.

💡 How do you check this?

2 ways:

1. If "fresh meat" is n't listed first on the ingredients list, it means most of the product doesn't actually contain fresh meat. And it likely contains devious ways to claim it does.
2. If it has vague terms like "animal by-products" or "meat meal," you know the meat isn't the human-grade, fresh quality you or I are used to and expect.

Trick 2: With added vitamins and minerals – a wolf in sheep's clothing

A common claim. And it sounds great! But did you know that this common claim is actually a warning sign?

Dog food brands that boast of “added vitamins and minerals” are admitting that the original food is so nutritionally poor and overheated that it meets European guidelines only with synthetic additives.

Most kibble is heated to high temperatures (up to 200°C). This destroys natural vitamins and minerals. What remains is "restored" with synthetic additives.

It's like eating a frozen pizza every day and then taking a multivitamin to get all your nutrients…

But if you get all your vitamins & minerals, what's the problem?

The big problem: it's unclear whether synthetic vitamins are absorbed the same way as natural vitamins. Your dog can digest vitamins and minerals from natural sources best¹.

Fact!

Dogs that eat food with synthetic ingredients poop much more.

But why?

The answer lies in the absorption of the nutrients.

Science is still uncertain about how well dogs can absorb synthetic nutrients. But one thing is certain: they are certainly less effective than nutrients from natural sources.¹

The better the absorption of nutrients, the less there is left to be excreted.

That's why dogs that eat human-grade food poop much less. They simply absorb far more nutrients, which produces less waste.

A recent study showed just this. In a comparison of human-grade food vs. feed-grade dog food, the end result was 💩 a world of difference!²

💡 How do you check this?

If you see a long list of chemical names in the ingredients, you know the nutritional value has been artificially added. Look for foods that are unprocessed or minimally processed (only at low temperatures) to preserve their natural nutrients.

Trick 3: The Breed-Specific Formula Deception – A Clever Swindler for Your Wallet

You've probably seen them – those special kibbles specifically for your Golden Retriever, German Shepherd, or Chihuahua. The packaging boasts a beautiful photo of the specific breed and promises a "tailored nutritional formula" that precisely meets your breed's unique needs.

But what manufacturers don't tell you is that these breed-specific formulas are often more marketing gimmick than nutritional science.

The Hard Truth Behind Breed Specific Nutrition:

Minimal nutritional differences – The actual differences in nutrients between breed-specific formulas are often negligible. Compare the analytical constituents of a Labrador formula with a Retriever formula from the same brand—they're virtually identical.

❌ Primarily cosmetic adjustments – Most adjustments focus on cosmetic issues such as “less shedding” or “shinier coat” rather than fundamental health benefits.

❌ One size doesn't fit all – Even within the same breed, individual dogs vary greatly in activity levels, metabolisms, and nutritional needs. A standard formula for all Beagles doesn't account for the fact that your Beagle might be much more active or calmer than average.

❌ High price premium – For this supposed “specialization” you pay on average 15-30% more than for regular premium kibble from the same brand.

"There is little to no scientific evidence that breed-specific nutrition offers any benefit over a good quality diet tailored to a dog's life stage, activity level, and health condition." - Dr. Lisa Freeman, veterinarian and nutritionist at Tufts University

Comparison in practice

Brand X Labrador Retriever Formula:

• Protein: 25%
• Fat: 14%
• Fiber: 3.5%
• Price: €7.50 per kg

Brand X Adult Formula:

• Protein: 24%
• Fat: 15%
• Fiber: 3%
• Price: €5.90 per kg

Only significant difference: 1% more protein, 1% less fat and a 27% higher price!

Of course, different breeds sometimes have different health predispositions. Some large breeds, for example, are more prone to joint problems. But these issues require specific dietary adjustments that are often not even included in these "special" formulas, or are so minimally added that they have no noticeable effect.

💡 How do you check this?

Compare the ingredients list and analytical constituents of the breed-specific food with the standard premium food from the same brand. If the differences are minimal (less than 2-3% difference in the key components), you're paying a premium price for what is essentially the same product with different packaging.

Trick Four: The Meat Percentage Riddle

Many packages proudly proclaim: "Contains 30% meat!" But what exactly does that mean?

Usually a lot less than you think.

What manufacturers are silent about:

Is the ingredient fresh meat (which is 70% water)? Or already dried meat ?

❌ Do they calculate the meat percentage before or after the cooking process?

❌ Do they also include bones, cartilage and other byproducts in that percentage?

A kibble claiming "30% meat" may actually contain only 9% actual meat protein after processing. The rest is lost during the production process.

Not exactly the meaty meal you had in mind for your dog…

💡 How do you check this?

Note the words "dried" or "flour" in the meat ingredients list. This suggests a misleading representation of the actual amount of meat protein. And check the total protein percentage in the nutritional analysis – is it in line with what you would expect from a meat-rich product?

Tip 5: Grain-free — yet still full of starch?

“Grain-free” has become one of the most popular marketing claims, suggesting your dog is getting a diet more closely resembling its “wolf ancestors” and that it is suitable for dogs with grain allergies.

Grains and starch are not the same, but grains are made up almost entirely of starch.

And what manufacturers don't tell you is crucial.

The Hidden Truth About Grain-Free Food

• The grains are usually replaced by other carbohydrates such as potatoes, peas, lentils or tapioca.
• The total carbohydrate content often remains just as high or is even higher than with grain-based feed.
• These substitutes can cause a faster rise in blood sugar levels than regular grains. This can lead to blood sugar fluctuations, weight gain, and problems with insulin action.
• Dogs have no biological need for starch – they get energy much more efficiently from animal proteins and fats³.

Why eating fewer carbohydrates is important

Dogs are facultative carnivores . This means they can digest vegetables and grains (the major carbohydrate sources), but they are naturally carnivorous. In the wild, they would primarily eat animal proteins and fats, supplemented with small amounts of fiber-rich plant foods.

The question is: how many carbohydrates is appropriate?

Dogs' diets originally consisted of less than 10% carbohydrates. Modern nutritionists recommend a maximum of 20% for a biologically appropriate diet⁴.

The result?

❌ Too much starch (loaded with carbohydrates) leads to spikes in blood sugar levels , increases inflammation and increases the risk of obesity and diabetes ( study ).

❌ The digestion of starch in dog food can affect healthy gut flora , leading to digestive problems and an increased risk of allergies and skin problems ( study ).

How do you calculate the carbohydrate content of your dog food?

Manufacturers usually do not state how many carbohydrates are in their food, as this is not mandatory.

But, you can calculate it yourself with a simple formula: 100% - (Protein% + Fat% + Fiber% + Moisture% + Ash%) = Carbohydrate%

🧮 Sample calculation from Pedigree

A bag of chunks lists the following analysis:

• Protein: 20%
• Fat: 9%
• Cellulose: 2.3%
• Moisture: ?%
  Moisture isn't mandatory, but it's usually listed. If it isn't, you can use 10% for pellets.
• Ash: 5.8%

So: 100 - (20 + 9 + 2.3 + 10 + 5.8) = 52.9% carbohydrates!

Many commercial kibbles contain 35-50% carbohydrates , while a biologically appropriate diet should contain a maximum of 20% carbohydrates .

💡 How do you check this?

Look beyond the "grain-free" claim and investigate which ingredients replace the grains. If potatoes, peas, lentils, or tapioca are high on the ingredient list, you've simply swapped one carbohydrate source for another. Try this calculation on your own dog food!

Trick 6: the natural illusion

"Natural" is a vague concept. Always has been.

It often has more to do with our perception of what we find natural.

Many people think that when they hear 'natural', the ingredients come from local farmers, made without pesticides or other chemical ingredients.

But, what does it mean according to the law?

Absolutely nothing.

We, too, expected there to be a guideline or regulation behind the claim "natural" in dog food. Although general European regulations exist for claims on pet food, as laid down in the Animal Feed Market Regulation (Regulation 767/2009/EC), there are no specific guidelines for the use of the term "natural" in pet food.

So, what does this NOT mean?

❌ That the food is minimally processed

❌ That it comes from your local farmer

❌ That the ingredients are of high quality

❌ That the product is free from pesticides or toxins

A dog food made from sludge meat, industrial byproducts, and chemically extracted animal fat can still be called “100% natural.”

So, of course, it's a useful claim for manufacturers. The sad thing is that it's useful for all manufacturers ...

This way, claims on attractive labels can be used without any problems.

Let's zoom in on this label from Seberus.

It lists ingredients such as hexametaphosphate, sodium selenite, calcium iodate & zinc sulfate.

These ingredients are synthetic minerals that are legally permitted, but certainly don't sound natural. Newsflash... they're not!

Yet manufacturers like these are allowed to make claims such as 100% natural, as there is no regulation for this.

This ensures that dog foods that do pay attention to, for example, the quality and origin of their ingredients, end up in the same category as those that do not.

💡 How do you check this?

Look beyond the "natural" claim. Inspect the entire ingredients list and look for specific, recognizable ingredients instead of vague categories. Also, look for information about the production process – minimal processing is just as important as natural ingredients.

Trick 7: The High Protein Twist

“Rich in protein” sounds like a healthy choice, but without context it says little about the actual nutritional values ​​of the food.

What manufacturers don't mention:

• Not all proteins are created equal. Animal proteins contain complete amino acid profiles that plant proteins often lack.
• Many “high-protein” kibbles get their protein content from cheap plant sources such as soy or wheat gluten.
• Bioavailability (how much of the protein your dog can actually use) varies greatly between sources.
• Some plant proteins may even contain anti-nutritional factors (ANF) that hinder the absorption of other nutrients.

A chunk with "30% protein" where most of it comes from soy is nutritionally much less valuable than a chunk with "25% protein" from meat.

Your dog won't be able to taste the difference based on the percentage, but his long-term health will definitely notice it.

💡 How do you check this?

Look at the first few ingredients. Are there clearly identifiable animal protein sources? Or do you see vague terms like "vegetable protein," "hydrolyzed protein," or "soy protein"?

Trick 8: Ingredient Splitting – So Meat Is the First Ingredient

"With meat as the first ingredient!" – A claim you often see in premium dog food brands. But manufacturers use a clever trick to make this happen, even when their product is actually full of grains and starch.

This is how ingredient splitting works:

1. Manufacturers divide carbohydrate sources into several specific ingredients (e.g. white rice, brown rice, rice flour, rice starches).
2. Each of these ingredients will appear lower on the list than it would if they were counted as one ingredient.
3. This allows meat to appear as the first ingredient , even if the product contains more carbohydrates than meat in total.

For example, a food containing 20% ​​chicken followed by white rice (15%), brown rice (14%), and rice flour (13%) advertises “chicken as the first ingredient!” – but actually contains 42% rice and only 20% chicken.

More about this in our separate blog on ingredient splitting .

💡 How do you check this?

Add up all the variations of the same ingredient. If you see different types of rice, corn, or potatoes, calculate how much it would be if you combined them. Often, it turns out that the carbohydrate source is actually the main ingredient.

Trick 9: The Hidden Flavor Enhancer Strategy

“For the most fussy eaters!” or “Irresistibly delicious!”.

We often see these claims on dog food packaging in Dutch and Belgian stores. But what's not mentioned on the packaging is that the intense flavor often says nothing about the food's nutritional value—and everything about clever marketing.

The hidden truth behind flavor enhancers

Many manufacturers use flavor enhancers to make kibbles with little nutritional value irresistible. They do this by first using cheap, often highly processed ingredients. During the production process, at temperatures up to 200°C (extrusion), the aroma, flavor, and nutrients are lost. What remains is tasteless.

To solve this problem, flavor enhancers are added after baking: fat coatings, animal flavors, and sweeteners. These create intensely tasty chunks that dogs can't resist—even if the nutritional value is low.

The most commonly used flavor enhancers in dog food

Animal flavorings or natural flavorings : vague terms that, according to EU law, do not provide a definitive answer to the exact origin. These can be fermented organs or enzymatically degraded by-products.

❌ Animal hydrolyzate : an intensely palatable product obtained by chemical breakdown of animal tissues.

❌ Sweeteners such as molasses, dextrose and maltodextrin: these activate reward areas in the brain.

❌ Fat coatings : provide an odor and taste that are additionally attractive to dogs.

💡 How do you check this?

Please note the following terms on the packaging:

• animal aromas
• natural flavors
• animal hydrolyzate
• sweeteners such as "molasses", "maltodextrin"

These words often indicate artificially enhanced kibble. Try switching to minimally processed, fresh food without added flavor enhancers. Within 2-3 weeks, you'll often see a change in your dog's eating behavior—calmer, more mindful, and less obsessive.

Trick 10: Hidden percentages

Have you ever read an ingredient list and thought, "Wait...how much is actually in there?"

You are not alone.

This is one of the most used tricks in the industry: vague umbrella terms without percentages.

Grains? What could all this be?

• Corn
• Rice
• Wheat
• Or 23 more types of grain

Although manufacturers are legally required to specify the type of grain they use, multiple types are often listed without exact percentages. As a result, you still don't know exactly what's in it.

Meat and animal by-products (of which poultry 4%). What would the other 96% be?

Why do manufacturers keep it deliberately vague?

Profit optimization and flexibility.

This flexibility allows them to purchase cheaply.

They buy what is cheapest every day:

Today chicken necks 👍

Tomorrow beef lung 👍

The day after tomorrow, pig offal 😳

Cheap purchases = more margin

By using broad collective terms such as:

• “meat and animal by-products”
• vegetable by-products
• vegetable mix

…they keep all options open.

As long as it falls under the same heading, it can be included.

You think you are buying a consistent product.

But in reality, the composition is constantly changing — and so is the nutritional value.

In Europe, manufacturers are allowed to use these broad descriptions if it is technically correct according to law — but that doesn't mean it's the best for your dog.

💡 How do you check this?

✔ Look for brands that are open about exactly what and how much they use

✔ Avoid products with undefined terms such as “by-products”, “oils and fats”, “vegetable components”

✔ Ask yourself: “Would I buy these ingredients to feed my dog?”

Conclusion

Now that you know these tricks, you're better equipped to see through the marketing and see products for what they really are.

At Blue Zone, we believe in transparency and honest communication about what's really in your dog's food. No gimmicks, no hidden agendas—just natural, minimally processed food that contributes to a longer, healthier life for your four-legged friend.

That's why we've created this short checklist for you: the anti-deception checklist. Your dog deserves better than marketing gimmicks and shiny packaging.

These are 10 practical checks you can tick off when choosing the right food for your dog.

Score: How many checkmarks ✅ do you have?

• 8-10 ✅ → Top food! You've found an honest product 🎉
• 6-7 ✅ → Okay, but not perfect. We recommend continuing your search 🔍
• 0-5 ✅ → This is probably mostly marketing. Avoid this food! 🚨

Your checklist against deception

• Is "fresh meat" or "muscle meat" listed as the first ingredient without any "by-products" or "flour" listed anywhere?
• Does the ingredients list contain any chemical names you don't understand?
• For breed specific nutrition: is the difference in analytical constituents greater than 2-3%?
• Does the food contain more than 30% protein and does it come mainly from real meat (no flour or by-products)?
• Does the food contain less than 20% carbohydrates? Calculate with this formula: 100% - (Protein% + Fat% + Fiber% + Moisture% + Ash%)
• If the word "natural" is used, is it explained exactly what "natural" means? If not, then you often already know what "natural" means to that manufacturer.
• Does the protein consist mainly of 1 animal source and no soy, pea protein or wheat gluten?
• Doesn't the ingredient list contain multiple types of rice, corn, potatoes, or other split carbohydrate sources?
• Does the ingredients list not contain flavor enhancers such as aromas, hydrolyzate, molasses, or maltodextrin?
• Are all ingredients listed with percentages?

📲 Always have this checklist handy? Follow these steps to add it to your mobile apps:

1. Open this page on your mobile:

   Your checklist against deception in dog food

2. In your browser, click the 'share' icon (three dots at the top right for Android) and select 'add to home screen'.

3. Click 'Add'.

The checklist is now on your mobile home screen and just a click away!

📥 We've also made it downloadable for you, so you can easily print it. Click here!

Sources

1. https://www.healthline.com/nutrition/synthetic-vs-natural-nutrients#TOC_TITLE_HDR_2
2. https://www.petfoodindustry.com/news-newsletters/pet-food-press-releases/press-release/15467584/the-science-is-in-real-food-equals-less-poop#:~:text=The researchers found that dogs,to 41%25
3. https://voerwijzer.com/hondenrijst/?utm_source=chatgpt.com#:~:text=Dogs don't need carbohydrates
4. https://youtu.be/waGpipMMe3A?t=694